Frequently asked questions

Yes, today there are so-called high-temperature heat pumps that can heat water up to 75°C. They are designed specifically for renovations of older houses with conventional radiators, without the need to convert the heating to underfloor heating.

The most popular choice for family homes is the air-to-water system. It offers the best balance of price, performance and installation effort. If you have specific conditions (a large plot or a well), we will gladly go through ground-to-water or water-to-water options with you as well.

A standard installation of an air-to-water system in a family home usually takes 1 to 3 days. It all depends on how ready the building is and how demanding the connection to the existing heating is.

No problem. Modern heat pumps work efficiently even at temperatures down to -25°C. In extreme frost they are helped by a built-in backup electric (bivalent) source (heating element), so you will always have stable warmth at home.

Yes, most modern heat pumps have a reverse-mode function. In summer they can cool either through the underfloor heating (slow, pleasant cooling) or through so-called fan coils (ceiling/wall units similar to air conditioning).

Compared with purely electric heating (electric boiler), you can save up to 60 % to 70 % of costs. When switching from an old gas boiler, the saving is usually around 30 % to 50 %, depending on the insulation of the house.

With correct sizing and regular servicing, the average service life of a quality heat pump is 15 to 20 years. The heart of the system is the compressor, for which we provide an extended 10-year warranty.

We recommend a service inspection once a year, ideally before the heating season. The technician checks the system pressure, the cleanliness of the filters, the amount of refrigerant and the electronics, which ensures maximum efficiency and prevents faults.

Yes, this is currently the most popular combination. When you connect a heat pump to photovoltaics, the heat pump can give priority to surplus electricity generated from the sun (for example to pre-heat the hot water in the cylinder). This pushes the running costs of the house down to an absolute minimum.

Of course. All the modern heat pumps we install have an integrated Wi-Fi module. In our smartphone app you can monitor the current temperature, change the heating or cooling settings or check energy consumption, wherever you are in the world.

For ordinary family homes you do not need a building permit. In most cases it is enough to fulfil the notification obligation at the local authority (notification of a minor structure / building alterations). The only exceptions may be specific heritage zones, where the outdoor unit must not disturb the appearance of the building.

Yes! After the heat pump has been successfully installed and inspected, you can ask your electricity supplier to switch you to a special dual tariff (so-called low and high tariff, formerly known as "night-rate electricity"). The advantage is that this cheaper electricity then applies to the whole household, including the fridge, washing machine or TV.

A bivalent source is an integrated electric heating element directly in the heat pump. It serves as a “safety net”. For 95 % of the year the heat pump manages the heating on its own, but on days when temperatures drop well below -15 °C, this element switches on and helps the heat pump quickly reach the required temperature, so that you do not feel any loss of comfort.

A buffer tank works as a thermal hydraulic separator. It prevents the heat pump from switching on and off too often (so-called short cycling), which significantly extends the service life of the compressor. Whether it is necessary in your case depends on the volume of water in your heating system – we will gladly calculate it for you free of charge.

A short outage (a few hours) will not harm a modern heat pump – the house has its own thermal inertia and does not cool down immediately. When the power is restored, the system automatically restarts in its original mode. For Monoblock systems, where water also circulates in the outdoor unit, we install special anti-freeze valves that safely drain the water if there is a risk of freezing, so there is no risk of damage.

Definitely not. Every heat pump has a built-in backup electric heater. Even if the compressor fails, you simply switch the unit to the so-called emergency mode in the app or on the display. The house will be temporarily heated by the electric heating element until our service technician arrives.

For correct and economical operation, the outdoor unit needs a huge amount of air. There must be free space around it (ideally at least 30 cm from the wall and at least 1 to 1.5 metres of clearance in front of the fan). Dense shrubs would obstruct the airflow and, moreover, the air blown out of the heat pump is extremely cold in winter, which most plants would not survive.

Yes, completely without problems. The installation includes a domestic hot water cylinder (usually with a volume of 200 to 300 litres). The heat pump does not work as an instantaneous water heater; it pre-heats the water continuously and keeps it ready. For a standard family of 4 to 5, there is always enough hot water for showers or baths.

Split: The system is divided into an outdoor and an indoor unit, connected by refrigerant pipework. The advantage is that nothing freezes outside, but the installation requires a certified refrigeration technician. Monoblock: Everything important, including the refrigerant circuit, is in a single outdoor unit. Only pipework with heating water runs into the house. They are somewhat quieter and more environmentally friendly, but require safety devices against freezing. The choice depends on the layout of your house.

It is a modern, 100 % natural refrigerant that replaces the old synthetic refrigerants (which are gradually being banned for environmental reasons). Heat pumps with R290 achieve much higher efficiency, can easily heat water up to 75°C (ideal for old radiators), and with it you are buying technology that meets the strictest EU standards for decades to come.

COP (Coefficient of Performance): Shows instantaneous performance. If a heat pump has a COP of 4, it means that it produces 4 kW of heat from 1 kW of electricity supplied. SCOP (Seasonal COP): Is a much more important figure, because it shows the average efficiency over the whole heating season (it takes into account autumn, harsh winter and spring). The higher the SCOP, the less you pay for electricity.

Smaller heat pumps (with a lower output of up to approx. 6 kW to 8 kW) can manage with a single phase (230 V). More powerful units for larger or older houses need a three-phase connection (400 V). The advantages of three-phase heat pumps are more stable operation, even loading of the electrical network in the house and a lower risk that the main circuit breaker “trips” when the unit starts.

Technically yes, but we do not recommend it. Fixing it to the façade of the house can transmit small micro-vibrations directly into the walls, which you might perceive at night as a faint hum. Mounting on the roof, in turn, complicates service access (e.g. when clearing snow or leaves). The best and quietest solution is always a stable concrete base on the ground next to the house.

Yes, there are special designer and acoustic covers on the market (wooden slats, perforated aluminium). However, it is important that these covers are certified specifically for heat pumps. If you covered the unit with a home-made box, you would restrict the air supply, the heat pump would lose output and could be irreparably damaged.

Completely without problems. In such a case, a so-called manifold with mixing sets is installed in the plant room. The heat pump then sends warmer water to the radiators (e.g. 50°C) and cooler water to the underfloor heating (e.g. 35°C). The whole system communicates automatically according to the outdoor temperature.

To be frank – we can install it and it will heat the house, but the investment will not pay back as quickly. If a huge amount of heat escapes from the house, the heat pump will have to run at maximum and often switch on the backup heating element, which will raise your electricity bills. Our recommendation: If you have a limited budget, insulate the house first (even the ceiling and replacing the windows is enough) and only then invest in a heat pump. You will save twice – on the price of a smaller heat pump and on its running costs.

The outdoor unit usually weighs 100 to 150 kg, is firmly anchored in concrete and connected to the wall by copper pipework. Removing it in broad daylight (or quietly at night) is almost impossible without the thief destroying the unit itself. For your peace of mind, however, we recommend reporting the installation of the heat pump to your insurer and including it in your property insurance (it is usually a matter of a few euros a year).

Yes, modern heat pumps have a pre-set pool heating programme in the control unit. Via a three-way valve and a pool heat exchanger, the heat pump can redirect its output to the pool in the transitional seasons (spring/autumn), significantly extending your swimming season for a fraction of the cost compared with conventional electric heating.

No need to worry, the heat pump is completely fine. This is the so-called defrost cycle. In winter, frost forms on the outdoor heat exchanger. From time to time the heat pump automatically switches to reverse mode to get rid of the ice. The frost melts (which is why water runs out) and the sudden change in temperature creates steam that looks like smoke. It is a sign that the system is working correctly.

Definitely not. Even though no heating is needed in summer, the heat pump still provides domestic hot water heating for the whole household, or cooling. In addition, modern systems briefly turn the circulation pumps and valves at regular intervals so that limescale does not settle in them and they do not seize up during the winter. Consumption in this “summer standby mode” is negligible.

We can completely dismantle the old gas boiler. However, if you decide to keep it as a backup source, we can connect it to the new system. As for the chimney, it will remain unused after switching to a heat pump. You do not have to demolish it – it is enough to cover the top safely against rain, or use it in the future as a shaft for running cables (for example to a photovoltaic system).

Extremely hard water is the enemy of every heating system, not just a heat pump. It can clog heat exchangers and reduce their efficiency. That is why we specially treat and filter the water before filling the heating system. If you have very hard water in your well or mains supply, we recommend installing a water softener at the entry to the house – this will protect not only the heat pump but also your washing machine and taps.

An air-to-air heat pump works on the principle of conventional air conditioning – it does not heat water in radiators but blows warm air directly into the room. It is an ideal solution for cottages, holiday homes, smaller flats or as supplementary heating alongside local sources (e.g. a wood-burning stove). Its advantages are low purchase costs and an extremely fast heat-up.

Yes. Although the heat pump supplies water at the same temperature to the whole house, you can control the resulting temperature in individual rooms using room thermostats or thermostatic heads on the radiators. The heat pump automatically adapts to how many circuits are currently open and need heat.

For Split systems, the maximum distance (length of the connecting pipework) is usually 15 to 30 metres, depending on the output and the brand. For Monoblock systems it is recommended to keep the distance as short as possible (ideally up to 5 to 10 metres) to avoid heat losses in the underground pipework.

In most cases a standard three-phase 25A circuit breaker, which almost every family home has today, is sufficient. If you have a smaller heat pump and do not cook on three induction hobs at once every day, increasing the amperage (and with it the monthly charges to the electricity company) is usually not necessary. Before installation, however, we always carry out a site survey and check the condition of your electrical network.

This label means that the heat pump is ready for the “smart grid” of the future. It can communicate with the electricity distributor or your photovoltaic system. When there is a surplus of cheap electricity in the grid (or the sun is shining on your panels), the grid sends the heat pump a signal and it switches on automatically to “pre-heat” the house or store hot water at minimal cost.

Under Slovak legislation, noise at the boundary of the neighbouring plot (in residential zones) must not exceed 45 dB during the day and 35 dB at night. The modern heat pumps we install have a quiet night mode that reduces the fan speed so that they comfortably meet these limits, even when they stand just a few metres from the neighbour's fence.

Yes, for new builds it is practically a necessity today. To achieve the strictest energy class A0 (nearly zero-energy buildings), you must use renewable sources. A heat pump is the simplest and most reliable way to pass the final building approval without stress.

We install the heat pump on a raised structure (approx. 30 to 40 cm above the ground) so that normal snow cover does not bury it. However, if an extreme blizzard blows snow right up to the fan, the space around it needs to be gently cleared with a broom. Never chip ice off the fins with sharp objects – you could puncture them and damage the refrigerant circuit.